GM Performance CAI added to the ZR1 

Because I was an "early adopter" of the ZR1, GM had not announced or made available their performance CAI option for the ZR1 when I ordered or when I received my car. However, I started reading about it shortly there after. As soon as they were available, I ordered one from WeaponX Motorsports and put it on. GM guaranteed 17hp over stock and had the dyno data to prove it, but also they stated the ECU was designed to recognized the additional air and take advantage of it without any tune required. So, I was in.

First, the install instructions that come with it are pretty good but there are a few things they don't cover well and assume you know how to do. I'll touch on a few of those.

First, if you plan to disconnect the battery as the instructions say, make sure to open your drivers side door before you disconnect the battery.

To access the battery, there's no need to fully remove the carpet pad from the rear cargo area as the instructions say. Just pull out the rear corner of the carpet pad on the passenger's side by wedging your finger in at the edge and pulling back away from the rear of the car. I did it near the subwoofer. Once you start it just work your way to the passenger side corner then up towards the fender well. You just need to free up enough to lift it up and away from that corner. Underneath is a foam cover over the battery compartment. I'm not convinced you need to disconnect the battery for this install, but I pulled the ground off the battery just in case.

That's the foam battery cover, just pull it out

Now, you are to remove the shaker cover from the supercharger. They say to use the tape on 4 sides. I found that you can use the center line on the hood and shaker to align left to right. You should use the tape on the front and back edges to get a reasonable realignment front to back when you reinstall the part. Slice the tape with a razor to create the realignment edges. Loosen the four 10mm bolts but you can leave them in the rubber grommets when they're clear. Lift the cover off and set it aside.

Next, you are to remove the upper baffle extension. Once you pull the bolts (7mm), This part is a bit stubborn to pull free. You'll see it has a front edge that sides up under the lip of nose. See pic below.

You just have to lift the rear edge and wiggle it free. Takes a little persuasion, but it will come out.

Now to disconnect the PCV fitting and then remove the duct. The instructions are pretty clear here. To disconnect the fitting, push on the white area of the fitting that is more proud (jutting out), and pull free while holding that release in. Loosen the two clamps and pull the duct out.

Next it says to disconnect the hood strut. First, you can count on the fact that the hood will be held up by the other strut. No need find a way to hold it up. Now, to release the strut, you need to just pry open the clamp. See the picture below where I'm using a pick to pull up on the clamp, and the strut just pops free. You only need to do the top, don't mess with the other end.

Next you unplug the MAF connector. See the pic below. Slide the red release (pointed to by the red arrow) in the direction of the green arrow. Now, squeeze in on the release tab pointed to by the blue area while pulling the connector free (in the direction of the green arrow).

Ok, pull the 2 bolts holding the air box in and slide it free while being careful to lift up the surge tank coolant hose that lays on top of it. It's pretty easy to get it out.

Now, follow the instructions on swapping the MAFS, 3 grommets (2 with metal washers) from the old air box to the new CAI.

Now you have to move the front headlamp harness strap. The instructions are pretty clear on this. Just cut the old one free, put the new one on in basically the opposite orientation to push the harness towards the car centerline and down making space for the new CAI

Next you need to move the cooling hose over to make room for the new CAI box. Following the instructions. Pretty clear.

Time to place the new CAI box in position. It's pretty straight forward. See the pic below of how mine fits into place. Pop the two bolts into and tighten them up. The pic below is after I did several more install steps so don't be confused by that.

Pop the hood strut back on.

Now you need to pull the bolt out holding the cable clamp on top of the CAI box. You'll need to open the clamp up and slide it over the surge tank coolant line and then bolt it back in place. See pic.

Once you do this the surge tank coolant line will not fit back into the cable clamp on the fender well. At least mine wouldn't. I guess that's redundant now. See pic.

Put the duct back in and tighten the two clamps.

Reconnect pcv fitting by pushing it back on while holding in the release as before.

Now you have to install that piece of "anti-abrasion sleeve" with the two cable ties. See my pic on what mine looks like.

Reconnect the mass air flow sensor. Make sure to push the red lock back down.

Now put that pesky upper baffle extension back in. I found I needed to start the front in under the nose and work the back down. It was a bit tight but you can work it into place. Put the 4 bolts (7mm) back in.

Set your shaker back on. The bolts should be still be in the grommets so push them down so their proud by maybe a 1/4". Find the holes underneath each one and just start the bolts. Do NOT tight yet.

Partially close the hood and align left to right using the CF centerline, then front to back use you tape edges. Now tighten the 4 bolts.

Reinstall your battery cable and put the foam cover and carpet pad back.

You may need to reindex your driver side window. If you do, just get in the car, put it in accessory mode (don't put you foot on the brake then push the start button). Now roll the window all the way up and hold the button til you hear the chime. Now roll it all the way down and hold the button til you hear the chime. It's reindexed and you can now close it.

17HP is not a lot to feel in the seat of the pants, but the car does seem more responsive. Regardless, I'm happy with it.

Next stop, the Dyno. Stay tuned for the dyno numbers.

Finished Product

__________________

Total Cost: $550

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